Coffee or Garlic?

 

Coffee or Garlic?

Le Lion Cafe in Shibuya Tokyo

I was going to walk to a bookstore but decided to visit Le Lion Cafe which is in the Shibuya area of Tokyo.  I go here often over the years. It is one of my favorite places and by far my favorite cafe.  Their specialty and only specialty is that they play classical albums - mostly vinyl.  The coffee there cost 550¥, and it’s not that good.  What you’re paying for is someone to play records for you.  A vintage DJ set where one plays music for another.   They have these two massive wooden cabinet speakers facing the coffee drinkers.  One is not allowed to converse at the cafe.  There are small wooden chairs and covered seats.  All were facing the direction of the three turntables, various amps, and a CD machine or two.

When I walked in, they were playing Schubert’s “The Four Seasons” on vinyl.  Before and after each record, the waiter/waitress gives an introduction to the music being played.  Usually, they give the composer and the piece, but they also read from what looks like an old hardcover book on classical music, to provide detail about either the recording or the orchestra/musician/composer.  Last night after each playing, the waitress cleaned the vinyl before and after playing the record.   The next record was, I think, a piece of music by Tchaikovsky.  All introductions are done in Japanese, and they do exhibit the album cover on a stand in front of the speakers, but the lighting is so dark it’s hard to make out what the print says on the record cover.  She then played a recording of Handel’s harpsichord music.

I casually looked around the small room, and there are three people there drinking coffee and listening to the music.  There is an upstairs as well, that is the balcony, and the seating arrangement is the same as the bottom floor.  When you see the speakers, one would think that it will be loud.  The volume is somewhere in the middle.  What's interesting is that the music doesn't drown out the noise outside the cafe.  You can hear people laughing and walking pass the Lion Cafe, and one is aware that there is life outside the listening room.  The other thing one notices is that the architecture inside and outside represents a baroque era.  It is almost if you were walking down a street in the 17th century Vienna and you come upon this coffee house.  It's European but with the oversight of a Japanese aesthetic.

There are many things here that I find impressive, but one is sitting by yourself and being confronted with Western culture in an Eastern country.   The cafe is located in the Red Light District in Shibuya.  There are nothing here but bars and love hotels.   One would think that the perfect location for Le Lion Cafe would be the Ginza or West Shinjuku.  Here in Playland is the ultimate escape from the 21st century into the world that is both real and imagined.  The best 550¥ ever spent.

January 6, 2017 (Tosh's Diary)

January 6, 2017

As I type, I'm listening to Erik Satie's "42 Vexations, as performed on piano by Stephane Ginsburgh.  It's music that can last forever, and which brings to mind, the concept of endless anything.  So far this year, I have felt nothing but emptiness.  There are objects in my room right now that has more life than me.  For instance, this cup of coffee expresses a life that once was happening.   A verb in action, but now just a noun.

It's freezing in my writing spot here, and I have a portable electric heater to warm my toes and foot.  I don't wear socks because I can't stand to have my feet covered.  If I had my way, I would like to be Sandie Shaw, who was known for going bare-footed in concerts and TV appearances.  It's interesting how one can have an image of something like that - and to able to carry it off for years.  Does she even wear shoes?  Still, if you warm the feet, it somehow makes the rest of the body warm.  I'm sure it's a psychological trick of some sort, and due to my schooling, I don't fully understand the process.

Right now, I'm processing the loss of my film print of "Greed," which is everything, and now gone, reminds me that I have nothing.   My coffee is getting cold, so I'm going to put it close to the heater.  I will get back to you later.