September 8, 2018 (Paris) by Tosh Berman

September 8, 2018

The early part of the day was very much into the subject matter of sleep.  I woke up around 10 and did some writing.   The apartment we are staying in is on the top floor.  As you look out the two windows in the main room, the view is rooftops.  Not far from us is the Circus building, and their roof is a vast dome.   I would like to think it was a university or a Government building, but no, it’s a circus.  Since we are on the top floor, the ceiling is shaped like the rooftops.  There are peeks, and then there are lows.  As of my last count, I banged my head at least three times.  We have wooden beams going across the room. If I wish to hang myself, that would be no problem. The beam is probably 8 ft high, so if I get a chair and a nice rope, the job is done. 

At the moment (even although I’m writing) I’m getting dressed to go out tonight to be part of my dad’s opening here in Paris.  After the talk I will give with Sophie, then we will have dinner at Frank and Vanessa ’s house which is in the neighborhood.  To clear my head, I take a walk around the Marais, which is the oldest part of Paris.  As I stroll down the streets without bothering the thought of direction or address, I think of the 17th-century structures, and imagine myself in the future, which in fact, I’m apparently in the present, which of course, is the future.  

I found a Vegan Burger place in the Marais called “Hank’s Burger,” (55 rue des Archives, 75003 Paris) which looks fantastic.  I gave up on eating meat, yet I still desire to eat a hamburger.  For me, it’s not the meat that necessary in a burger but the accessory what is around the beef.  The bun, lettuce, mustard, onions and so forth is what makes me hungry.   It’s more of a textural feeling than anything else.  Since it was a Saturday, there was a huge line to get in.  I stood in line for a bit and decided I needed to get some fast food because I had to go to the gallery for my dad’s opening at the gallery Frank Elbaz.  I’m scheduled to give a talk or chat with Sophie at the gallery, and I didn’t want to be late.  

I found a small chain food market, which had Amazon lockers for people to pick up their purchases.   In their food-to-go department, I found a vegetable wrap, that cost around 3 euros.  I sat at the counter to look out at the people walking on rue de Turenne.  My favorite two cities to watch people is Tokyo and Paris.  But sitting here, I’m thinking that maybe Paris is more colorful or eccentric.  There are at least a 100 narratives taking place within 20 minutes of me eating my vegetable wrap.  Which, by the way, is rather good for an inexpensive, quick bite. 

Lun*na and I met my nephew and his soon to be the bride at the corner of our street where we are staying, and we then headed out toward the gallery.   We walked by a large store “Merci” (111 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Paris) and decided we had an extra 30 minutes, so we decided to go in and look around.  It’s a very exquisite shop that sells clothing to cooking gear, and everything in-between.  It’s a shop that is curated with a specific taste.  It’s large with a men’s section as well as women’s - and there’s a cafe attached to the store that is lined with bookshelves full of used books.  One can buy a book here as well as having a meal. 

As we left to approach the gallery, I was getting nervous about my presentation.  I should be if one is sane because I didn’t prepare for any talk.  I never do!  I often have dreams where I’m in social and open places, and I’m not wearing any pants.  This is a dream of anxiety, and this is how I feel whenever I appear in front of the public.  The good news is Sophie is excellent with a crowd, and I just follow her train of thought, and bingo the evening was a success.   I’m delighted with Wallace’s (my dad) show at the gallery.  The show will be up until October 11, and the address is 66 rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris.  Open from Tuesday to Saturday, 11:00 A.M. To 7 P.M. 

The opening was extra special because an old friend of my dad and mom’s showed up at the opening.  John is his name, and he came from London to visit his friend in Paris, but also for the opening as well.  After the gallery closed for the evening, we all went on a stroll to Frank and Vanessa’s home that was nearby the gallery.  As I walked by, I saw this poster of Johnny Halliday, and I was intrigued to know that there is an exhibition devoted to his memory and career.   In my life, French rock n’ roll makes more sense to me than American rock n’ roll. 

When we arrived at the home, which was initially built in the 17th century, it was breathtakingly beautiful.  There were a lot of people there, and I immediately felt comfortable to be in their presence.  In many ways, Paris is a theatrical setting, and I’m just one of the actors who roam around the area, getting ready for a performance. 

- Tosh Berman, Paris, September 8, 2018

September 7, 2018

Jet-lag.  In Paris. I’m happy.   The flight on Air France was nice but very long.  10 hours in a small seat.  Due to Lun*na’s need to sit on the aisle, I have to sit in the middle.  When eating, I’m always concerned about keeping my arms away from my neighbors - whoever has the window seat, and of course Lun*na.  Also, the fact that I’m left-handed makes the eating in that particular seat even more difficult for me.  I wanted to read more, but my politeness won’t allow me the pleasure because I feel putting a light on; also it’s facing my direction is too bright for the person next to me who is trying to sleep.  Which brings up another issue is that I can never fall asleep on a plane. It’s impossible.  So basically I’m in this weird meditative state, and I’m just trying to focus on ‘nothing.’

The trip went smoothly.  I met Anna who works with Frank in the gallery (Galerie Frank Elbaz, 66 rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris), and she took care of the little details for us.  The place we’re staying at is in an ancient building, and on the 5th floor.  There is an elevator, but it’s small.  Lun*na and I can barely fit together, and she’s tiny.   As the elevator goes up, one can see the staircase, which is creepy looking, and the building itself doesn’t seem that great in shape.  The place itself is small, with a bedroom, a living room with a kitchen attached to that room, and a tiny bathroom with a shower.  

As you can gather Lun*na is already sound asleep at 3:17, and I sort of doubt she will wake up in a couple of hours. Meanwhile, I will go back to the gallery to see Sophie, oh and I did walk with Anna back to the gallery.  The Wallace show looks excellent.  Frank walked me back to our place, and here I’m working on my journal. 

It’s interesting to note that the apartment has books both French and in English.  What’s particular is that they every novel by Bret Easton Ellis.  Not sure if its the taste of the owner, or some renter left it here for guests.  There is also a large volume of Genet’s works as well.  You can tell the owner’s personality by his or her book collection.   Which I may want to secure the lock before going to sleep tonight!

Around the corner from us is the Paris Circus.  They have a building where they do nightly shows, and on top of that, there is a Clown Bar, which is where the clowns hang out.  I need to go there as soon as possible.   I have to imagine that the clowns go there as soon as their performance is over.  They probably keep some of their make-up on or at the very least their red ball noises.  

Later that afternoon, where I desperately tried to stay awake, we went back to the gallery to meet up with the wonderful gallery crew, as well as Sophie who curated the Wallace show.   With Sophie and gang, we went over the pieces and prepared for tomorrow night's talk and issues regarding the exhibition.  As we walked back, we both discovered that we wanted dinner.  

A few years ago I had lunch with Frank at an Italian restaurant Fulvio, (4, rue de Poitou, 75003 Paris) which was excellent. I found the place by hunger instinct, and it's not far where we are staying.  When we came in around 7PM they were still setting up for the evening.  They officially open at 7:30, but they weren't too fussy about us getting their early.  Most Parisians have dinner around 8:30 and up, so being an early diner is a good excuse to get a table almost anywhere.  As a starter, we had artichoke salad which was unusual for us.  The artichoke itself was the heart and not the leaves, and it had a firm texture.  The dressing was simple and served with loose lettuce leaves that soaked up the sauce as well as adding an exciting context with the firm artichoke.  I ordered Salmon penne, with vodka sauce, something I had many times, but what was unusual for me, is that the salmon was prepared and cooked differently in the plate.  It's a combination of creamy and robust, and it was delicious.  Also, the portions are enormous.   I think two people with a reasonable hunger can share both the starter and main dish easily. 

As we ate a Japanese couple sat next to us, and we started to have a chat, which is something I never do in a restaurant at home or anywhere else.  He's an artist who is having his first show in Paris, and he often paints his wife (his partner-in-crime, and his date for dinner), and he showed some of his work on his phone.  His name is Madsaki.  What he told us is that his current paintings in the exhibition were all aerosol paint on canvas as well as acrylic. For this show, his work is based on classic French iconic images or figures.  Jacques Tati, Godard imagery, Cléo from 5 to 7,"  Delacroix, and so forth.  For me, he and his work hit my cultural interest in one setting.  A Japanese contemporary artist, whose current paintings, is focusing on French pop culture and art.  The paintings were intriguing, and I'm for sure going to check out his show at Perrotin Gallery (76 rue de Turenne 75003 Paris).  The show is up until September 22. 

As we got back from dinner, we went shopping for soap, shampoo, and of course wine.  The first thing I did when I came into this apartment was to make sure that the premise has a proper wine opener.   I also forgot that most hotels and apartment buildings are utterly dark after the sun goes down.  To save electricity one has to turn the lights on as they wander through the hallways.  The tricky thing is to find the light switch in the hall in complete darknes

"Paris Scratch" by bart plantenga (Sensitive Skin)

ISBN: 9780996157049 Sensitive Skin

I have a deep interest in Paris. Not only what I imagine is Paris, but other people's Paris as well. It's a city that demands one's attention, especially in the field of the arts. It has a lot to do with its citizens, but it is also a city that is reflected quite often by various foreigners. For me, it is something in the way the city is laid out. I think architecturally first, then how that space is filled by what I think are interesting people. Charles Baudelaire, Boris Vian, the songs of Juliette Greco, the imagery of Serge Gainsbourg - all of this makes intriguing pictures and sounds in one's head. I would also like to add bart plantenga's "Paris Scratch" to that cultural pile as well.

First of all, I don't know if one can look at this book as fiction, non-fiction, a journal - it can be a combination of all three. The way I read it, "Paris Scratch is between a memoir and a travel journal. It is similar to taking a photo by or sketching on paper a scene in front of the author. The book consists of 365 chapters/sections, which in theory can be an actual year. "Paris Scratch" is not a book of lists, but deeply investigations of feelings, places, and people, as conveyed by the author. Various French artists and authors, as well as pop singers, run through the pages, but also foreign writers such as Henry Miller commenting on Paris. It's a city that has a lot of cultural baggage, and there is no way getting around the awesomeness of the place - and plantenga clearly conveys the magic that is or was Paris.

Entirely personal, and one-of-a-kind approach to Paris, plantenga successfully writes about a place that most readers of this book will be familiar with - yet, will discover new sensibilities and sensual aspects of a city well-lived, and reported by exquisite writers, for instance, bart plantenga.

"The Other Paris" by Luc Sante (FSG)

ISBN: 978-0-374-29932-3 FSG

The Other Paris" by Luc Sante (FSG)

Of all the cities in the world, Paris has a mythical hold on me. I don't know why? Los Angeles and Tokyo are my two other favorite cities, but somehow Paris has captured my imagination, and this book by Luc Sante, pretty much describes my imaginary Paris as a factual place. I have been there at least six times in my life, and yet, it never disappoints, just gives me a thrill whenever I'm confined in Paris. Sante's "The Other Paris" pretty much describes my fascination, as there is only my imagination that is the French city, and then there is "real" Paris.

Sante uncovers a Paris that is exposed in certain works of literature, such as "Fantomas" and the film works by Louis Feuillade. This is Paris history as if it was written by The Situationists International and the Surrealists. Crime, vice, a little bit of decadence here and there - it is what I imagine being in Paris, and therefore, clearly is. 

The book often reads and looks like a school textbook, and one wonder if "The Other Paris" will serve that role in a classroom. It should be. As well as being, without a doubt, one of the great books in English on the great city of my imagination and therefore known as Paris. I also realize by reading this book that Paris always had a great deal of street violence with respect to murders and bombs. What happened a few months ago in the city of light, is common, when compared to the Paris of the 19th century.

Beautifully illustrated throughout the book with images collected by Sante, so unlike other "history" or "travel" books, this seems to be a very personal work.  And that I think is one of the key aspects of this work, is making a public space or city into a personal landscape.    Luc Sante did this and he did it remarkably well.   A classic book.  

- Tosh Berman

"Imaginary Paris Vol. 1" in Le Bathyscaphe

Not exactly a great photo reproduction of my article in the latest issue of Le Barthyscaphe but nevertheless a remarkable publication out of Montreal.  The newspaper journal is bi-lingual, but this issue features my first column for the paper:  "Imaginary Paris."  The subject matter is Michel Legrand.

Read more about Le Bathyscaphe here:  http://lebathyscaphe.blogspot.com/

Le Bathyscaphe : 2.1 - CHARLES PLYMELL avec Mauro Pezzente from LE BATHYSCAPHE on Vimeo.

Benefit reading for Le Bathyscaphe with poet Charles Plymell.

Le Bathyscaphe : 2 - CHARLES PLYMELL avec Pam Plymell from LE BATHYSCAPHE on Vimeo.

Charles Plymell with Pam Plymell